Taylor’s Hill, Kandy, Sri Lanka

The six hours of traffic caused by many cars on narrow roads and a sacred elephant walking from Colombo to Kandy were worth it as soon as I arrived at Taylor’s Hill.  It is an old English style manor converted into a boutique hotel with 5 beautiful ensuite bedrooms.  The house boasts expansive gardens that include an infinity pool, croquet, outdoor volleyball/badminton court and tennis court.  The weather was rainy, windy and cool but a nice reprieve from hot Singapore!  The wind was so strong that the swaying trees actually sounded like the open ocean if you closed your eyes.  It was so high up in the hills that it felt like I was 100 ft from heaven.

I would recommend full board as there’s nowhere else to eat.  All the food was delicious and included breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner.  There’s no corkage if you bring your own wine and alcohol.  Soda water and tonic are available for a small additional fee if you need a mixer with your gin.

Inside the manor was a reading room with the perfect fireplace to gather around every night, two dining rooms, billiards room and a kids room.  I spent most of my time in reading room.  All the staff were extremely helpful, honest and polite.

During the day you can take walks around the village and neighbouring tea plantations.  You can also borrow their bikes to ride along the pot-holed filled roads.  The highlight of the trip was going to James Taylor’s original tea plantation.  The guided tour was USD 35 each person and the factory was refreshingly un-touristy.  The factory is 95 years old and tea is still being made the same method except with electricity instead of hydropower.  There’s no gift shop to purchase the tea, you’re literally dropped into the factory to witness the traditional tea manufacturing process.  It is Sri Lanka’s first black tea plantation – now government run, with 150 years of history, growing from 19 acres to now 1,000 acres.  It produces English Breakfast Tea which is actually just Ceylon black tea.  The factory sends all their tea to a weekly auction in 50kg bags.

The guide took us up 4,000 ft above sea level to the remains of James Taylor’s log cabin as well as his rock seat overlooking the country where he could plan out tea plantation ambitions.  The drive up there was extremely bumpy with a couple points of fearing for my life (I thought the car would slide down the mud and off the hill).  Our guide said he could actually arrange parasailing from James Taylor’s rock seat back to ground level and it would take 45 minutes to an hour.  Next time I go back, I’d like to try that!

We were virtually the only guests staying at the hotel at the time so we were able to get a sneak peek at all of the rooms.

Summary:  If you’re looking for a break where there’s minimal internet connection and you’re trying to disconnect from the world.  This is where it’ll happen.  In fact, you’ll feel like you’ve been transported back in time.  The two smallest rooms at Taylor’s Hill have dank bathrooms so I would suggest going for the larger rooms.

Learnings for the future:

  • Take the daily morning fast train from Colombo to Kandy and then drive to Taylor’s Hill instead of driving the entire way.  It would save you about 2 -3 hours of driving.
  • If you want to drive one-way, visit the Elephant Orphanage to break up the journey. The spice garden trip wasn’t worth it and they sell over-priced spices.
  • The dirt road to Taylor’s Hill is marked by this landmark:

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Key Contacts:

  • Driver: Jagath – +94 71 443 5519.  He can arrange tours and drivers for you.  However, the tour guide I used was from Taylor’s Hill.

Tips for Moving to Singapore

Moving to a different country can be daunting.  I’ve moved around enough to know!  Every country has it’s different nuances so here’s a checklist of what to do when you move to Singapore!  This is pretty much everything you’ll need to know before you get to Singapore and to help you settle within your first 2 weeks of landing here.  I’ll be updating as I think of more things and feel free to make suggestions.

What bank should you choose:

Generally I recommend getting a bank account with either POSB or DBS as they have the most ATM machines across Singapore.  I also got a HSBC account so that I could move money between my other country accounts, but I heard Citi allows you to move USD 10k back to the US monthly without any charges.

Generally when you setup an account, they ask you whether you need a cheque book.  I was told by a friend to get one as you never know when you need one.  You’ll incur a $2 a month charge for having one, but it has definitely come in handy for me e.g. putting a down payment on an apartment.  If you have a friend that can write one for you, that works too!  My Standard Chartered bank account came with a free cheque book.

I just opened a DBS Multiplier Account and it’s giving me pretty decent interest every month.  It might be something to consider!

What credit card should you get:

There are plenty of blogs on this, but what I love about Singapore is that you can get your debit card, NETS (works like debit), credit card and EZ-link (MRT card) all in one card.  Locals will tell you to get a credit card from every bank.  Each card gives you discounts/points for different stores.  I was too lazy to do this, but if you’re a shrewd person, you should definitely go with this option.  I currently use DBS’ Altitude Card which allows you to collect AirMiles and the first year is free.  I plan to cancel my credit card once the year is up because there are many AirMiles cards in Singapore that give you the first year free! (updated note: I was told if you call to cancel the card after the first year they’ll usually waive the annual fee. Woohoo!).  My housemate spreadsheeted all the AirMiles cards and has told me the UOB PRVI miles card is the best.  Yes, there are people that spreadsheet these things!  The only drawback is that you need a minimum income of 80k SGD for the UOB PRVI card.

How do I setup my phone?

There are three main telcos in Singapore – StarHub, Singtel and M1.  How you choose your telco largely depends on your needs.  StarHub and Singtel are generally chosen when you plan on getting Internet and pay-TV together.  They have really great bundles where you can save quite a bit of money.

M1 is generally cheaper by a dollar or two if you just want a mobile service.  All telcos have good coverage of the city so there isn’t much point of differentiation.  The only thing I would recommend is adding the Free IDD function for another SGD 8 a month (018 StarHub/021 M1/019 Singtel).  It allows you to call a whole host of countries for free like you’re using your regular talk minutes.  Simply dial 018 (if you’re with StarHub) in front of the international number.  Remember to check the countries covered beforehand.  Canada, Australia (landline only), USA, Hong Kong, Malaysia, UK (landline only) are included.

There are also much cheaper sim-only plans if you have your own phone already.  Otherwise, they will lock you in for 2 years.

There’s a new telco in town called Circles.  If you don’t need international roaming for your phone I would recommend checking them out – https://www.circles.life.  They only just launched May 2016.

Looking for a Place to Live:

My real-estate agent has become my best friend.  She sold me my condo and we’ve been hanging out ever since.  I used to think that all realtors were slimy until I met Michelle.  I would highly recommend her – Michelle Tan +65 8666 6166.  I should write another list of things you need to look out for in an apartment, but in the meanwhile, the four biggest things are:

  1. MRT – 7 minutes should be the maximum time to walk to the closest MRT.  Singapore’s gruelling heat in really taxing and every minute feels like eternity.  Don’t trust the listings you see online or Google maps.  Walk it yourself to see if it really is the 5 minute walk that’s being advertised.
  2. Covered Walkways – the walk to the MRT should be as covered as possible.  My former roommate used to call the tropical rain here the “Singapore Pour”.  It rains really hard here and you don’t want to be caught in it.
  3. Food – if you’re single, eating out is actually cheaper than buying groceries and making your own food.  You should have easy access to either a hawker center, mall or food court for those lazy nights when you don’t want to cook anything!
  4. Are you near a noisy road?  I slept in a room next to a noisy road before and it was so hard to sleep at night with all the buses going by.  I’ll never make that mistake again!
  5. In short, every place you look think of the acronym FAM – Food, Amenities, MRT and if you have a family then you’ll need to look at school district too.

I cannot insist on this more, don’t ever rent a ground floor unit.  There are so many pests in Singapore and you don’t want to give them easy access to your place. “Them” includes cockroaches, ants, rats, geckos and other creepy crawlies.  The higher up you are, the better.  For the full list, simply contact Michelle.  She’ll never rent out a place that she wouldn’t live in herself.

If you don’t want to go through an agent, you can always check out listings at Property Guru – http://www.propertyguru.com.sg.  If you find the listing yourself, you won’t have to pay for an agent.  The landlord will need to pay their agent, but you won’t need to.  That being said, if you mention you know Carolyn So to Michelle, maybe she’ll give you a discount!

How do I furnish my new place?

There’s always the trusty Ikea, but I also had some good finds at Courts in Tampines.  It’s great because Ikea and Courts are right next to each other, which makes it worth the schlep over to the East.  For real bargain hunters that don’t mind buying something second hand, download the app Carousell.  It’s like a Craigslist, but just for Singapore.  For the best deal on new electronics, I’ve found Parasilk in Holland Village the best price-wise.  The shopkeepers are willing to give nice customers discounts on certain items on the down low and all their products are genuine and they aren’t there to scam you (unlike Sim Lim which is where most people will recommend you to go).

If you’re using Carousell and the item you have is too big to fit in a taxi, you can normally find people offering their delivery services on Carousell or you can use another handy app called GoGoVan.  It’s like an Uber, but for larger moving vehicles.  It’s cheap, convenient and easy to use.

If you want something that is a little more stylish than IKEA or Courts (and a little more expensive), I love ordering off http://www.hipvan.com

Getting around Singapore:

Public transport is a dream here compared to most countries.  I use Google Maps to find a route to where I want to go and then an app called SG NextBus to figure out the exact time the next bus will come.  Google Maps isn’t the most accurate for timings.  The MRTs almost never break down (unlike London), so it’s always a reliable bet.  You might get squished a little during peak times though!

If you think Uber is the only option, there’s also another great local South East Asian app called Grab (formerly Grab Taxi).  Grab allows you to hail taxis and private cars much like how Uber does, except for private car rides, you know the exact fee you pay in advance so you don’t have to worry about any additional charges if you say get stuck in traffic.  ERP (road tolls), however, are still extra.

Taxi or Uber/Grab?  Taxis charge a surcharge during peak times that range from 25% (7am – 9:30am, 5pm to midnight) to 50% (midnight to 6am).  The only non-surcharge times are 10am – 5pm.  Anything before or after, Uber/Grab end up generally being cheaper than taking a taxi.  If there’s no surcharge, then there isn’t much a difference.  Uber and Grab also don’t charge a call or booking fee that cabs do.

Internet and TV:

The pay-TV providers in Singapore are StarHub and Singtel.  Most of my friends that go with Singtel because they watch a lot of sports.  I have a StarHub subscription, they have more channels to choose from and are stronger for Chinese language content as well as movies (HBO, Fox Movies)

They will most likely try to convince you to sign up for a 2 year package.  If you happen to move apartments/houses after a year, you’ll be able to take your pay-TV subscription with you, but if you have fibre Internet, you won’t be able to transfer it.  This is something to bear in mind when you’re choosing which package to sign up to.

If you don’t want pay-TV at all.  There are Internet only companies in Singapore such as MyRepublic and ViewQwest.  They will also provide a US VPN for you for an extra fee.  At the moment, VPNs are a grey area in Singapore.

Where do I get my groceries?

There’s a generally understood tier ranked below (most to least expensive):

  1. Cold Storage
  2. Fairprice Finest
  3. Fairprice
  4. Giant
  5. Sheng Siong / Wet Markets

I also order heavy groceries off Red Mart http://www.redmart.com.  Their customer service is stellar and they’re super convenient because they deliver.  Who wants to lug around toilet paper and laundry detergent?  Prices fall around the Cold Storage and Fairprice Finest range.  These three also tend to stock more internationally consumed things such as cheeses, greek yoghurt and almond milk.

The app that I just discovered and LOVE is HonestBee.  You can order your groceries online from a variety of places at the same prices in store.  You’ll have a personal shopper buy everything for you and there’s free delivery for orders more than $35.  Their service is truly amazing so check it out.  You can sign up using my referral link and you’ll get $10 off your first order (full disclosure, I’ll also get $10!) https://honestbee.com/r/CAROLYS6642

For toiletries, a little known secret is – buy them local and not at a grocery chain.  There are so many local shops around Singapore like Venus that sell toiletries (soap, shampoo, toothpaste and etc.) at sometimes half the cost of a Guardian, Watsons or grocery chains.  I just found out that they sell online too!  http://www.venusbeauty.com.sg/e-shop.html/

Getting a Cleaner

One of the awesome things about living in Asia is that you can get a part-time cleaner for your new home!  I like to be on the legal side and have only had cleaners who are Permanent Residents of Singapore.  They are legally allowed to work in Singapore.  Foreign Domestic Helpers are tied to a household and technically cannot offer cleaning services to any other household.  The fine if you get caught is SGD 10,000.  The current standard rate is SGD 15 per hour, but the really good ones charge SGD 20 per hour.  I would rather have someone come in and do a great job cleaning for 2 hours for SGD 40 than a crap job for 3 hours at $45.  Ask your foreign friends and colleagues, they will be your best source for finding a good part-time cleaner.

Any other cards I should get?

  • Passion card – sign up online, it’s something like $15 for 5 years membership and you can collect points at Cold Storage, Guardian and Giant.
  • Kopitiam card – a charge card that gives you 10% off all Kopitiams
  • Singapore is all about membership cards.  They love a good discount (and so do I)!  Depending on how long you stay in Singapore you might end up with an extra wallet entirely dedicated to membership/discount cards!

 

Perth International Airport (Terminal 1)

Wondering how to get from Perth International Airport to the city?  Here are a few options:

  1. Rent a car – if you’re going to be moving around a lot within Perth, I would highly recommend renting a car for the duration you’re there.  Taxis and Ubers quickly add up and Perth is quite spread out.
  2. Uber – I used Uber 3 times, all 3 rides were excellent.  Each driver offered candy/mint, bottles of water and cables for charging your phone!  I never had trouble ordering an uber.  There were always plenty to be found.  From where I stayed, I was told a taxi would be AUD45-50.  In an uber it was AUD29.3o!
  3. Shuttles to the city – You’ll have to make your way to the domestic terminal, but you can get a shuttle to the city for $15 per person.  More details can be found here: http://www.perthairport.com.au/ToTheAirport/Shuttles.aspx

Other Airport Details:

  • Free wifi?  Yes, they don’t ask for your email address or phone number either
  • Food? Yes, range of international – Mexican, Pub, Cafe
  • Shopping?
    • Before customs:  Clothing, books and Australian cashmere
    • After customs: Cosmetics, souvenirs, confectionary and electronics
  • Postbox? No and the bookstore ran out of stamps.  Mail your postcards before you get to the airport.  There are tons of post boxes around Perth!
  • Security?  Laptops out, Tablets can be kept in bag, liquids in clear bags required but can remain in bag

How early do you really need to get to the Perth International Airport?

I traveled with a paranoid friend, so we were there 2 hours prior to departure.  I think we would’ve been safe if we got there 1.5 hours in advance, but I have to admit, we did actually need to wait 20-30 minutes to check in because the Scoot line was really long.  Security and Customs were pretty quick – 15-20 minutes.

If there’s anything you’d like to add or if details have changed, please feel free to reach out to me so I can keep the information up to date.  Thanks!

Swan Valley (near Perth)

If you don’t have time to go to Margaret River for wine, I would recommend doing an easy day trip to Swan Valley.  It’s a 30 minute drive from Perth (we paired it with a visit to the Caversham Wildlife Park) and there’s plenty there to keep you busy. Since it was my second time in Swan Valley, I’ll list some of my favourite must-visit places.  They’re not all vineyards!

Lancaster Wines – 5228 W Swan Rd, Perth WA 6055, Australia

This vineyard only sells their wines out of a tin shed in Swan Valley.  Don’t let that exterior fool you.  I’m not a wine connoisseur, but their Rose (AUD 19 / bottle) is absolutely delicious and tastes like strawberries and cream.  The free wine and cheese tasting is made extra fun with their super friendly and pleasantly chatty staff.

The Margaret River Chocolate Company – 5123 W Swan Rd, West Swan WA 6055, Australia

Just across the street from Lancaster Wines is The Margaret River Chocolate Company.  If you think being a kid in a candy store is bad, wait until you experience it as an adult.  Walking in the store ignited a carnal need for chocolate that I hadn’t experienced in a long time.  Every imaginable form of chocolate was there and everything screamed “EAT ME”!  To your immediate left of the main doors, three large bowls of dark chocolate, milk chocolate and white chocolate pellets were there for free sampling.  Strategically placed too high for a 5 year old to reach and grab a handful without getting caught, adults can grab a spoonful of chocolate to sample.  I’m not ashamed to admit that I probably had seven spoonfuls.

 

Lunch at Houghton Cafe – 148 Dale Road, Middle Swan WA 6056, Australia

You can purchase wine from the Cellar Door while tucking into Houghton Cafe’s stringy pizzas (AUD 25-26).  The alfresco dining shaded by the original Houghton building and overlooking their picturesque grounds made for an extremely relaxing afternoon meal. You can walk through the quaint Houghton museum and view artwork by their resident artist.

Windarra Honey –   5 George St, West Swan WA 6055, Australia

I’d never heard of Jarrah honey before.  It has all the same health properties as Manuka honey, but at half the cost.  The jarrah flower flowers only once every two years so supply is limited!  Phil the owner started bee-farming as a hobby and has now made it into a full-time job (and I’m glad he did).  Ironically, his wife is terrified of bees, but is still dedicated to the business.  The couple are as sweet as their honey and their products are completely organic, unpasteurised and natural.  I bought some Jarrah honey (AUD 25 for 500mL) to take home as well as my 4th tub of their signature moisturiser that smells like Christmas (cinnamon and cloves) when you put it on.  It’s a thick overnight moisturiser that I use for my eczema (AUD 15 for 100g and AUD 29.50 for 250g).

Sekeping, Serendah – Malaysia

Bottom Line: If you like being one with nature (bugs including spiders, monkeys that steal your bread and no air conditioning) and don’t mind lack of customer service this is the place to stay.  No really!  I quite liked it!  Despite my phobia of bugs I absolutely loved the architecture and its respect for the beauty of nature.  It’s one step up from glamping.

This rustic resort – well known amongst hip local Malaysians and architects – is well worth the visit if you want an au natural escape.  Nestled in the heart of rural Malaysia a 5 hour drive from Singapore or 45 minutes away from Kuala Lumpur – the resort boasts 11 beautifully constructed villas that marries modern design to being exposed to the elements.

There was definitely a ‘wow’ factor when we first entered our Timber Shed 2.  At 650 Ringgit a night,  this place was great value for Singaporeans.  The shed included 4 beds (2 double, 2 singles), 2 outdoor bathrooms, a decent sized living room, a kitchen and fire pit.  At a closer look, there were a lot of critters crawling around (e.g. GIANT ants), the furniture was uncomfortable to sit on (metal wire chairs leave your legs with grid patterns) and there was zero phone reception.  I didn’t get bitten by mosquitos but it’s because we had read previous reviews and lathered ourselves with insect repellent.  Each bed was comfortable and handily equipped with a mosquito net.

 

There weren’t any hospitality staff, but “caretakers” who delivered our pre-ordered Nepalese dinner (25 Ringgit per person) and changed our bed linen.  Although well intentioned, they also woke us up at 7am the next day to fix our toilet that could’ve waited until we had woken up.

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For breakfast, we fired up the wok and fried the previous night’s leftovers for fried rice the next morning.  It was even tastier the second time around!  We originally had planned to eat the bread we brought, but it had somehow mysteriously disappeared overnight.  We think the monkeys got it.

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In the morning we explored the resort grounds and were blown away by how gorgeous everything was.  Concrete walkways winding down between and alongside streams of water and jungle terrain, round ponds of koi, 2 picturesque swimming pools.  It made me wish we had stayed one more night.

 

Tips: If you’re looking to stay at Sekeping, I would highly recommend Glass Box 1 and Timber Shed 2 as the best places to stay and booking both Warehouses for a whole group of 20.  If you only book 1 warehouse, the other warehouse is quite close so there’s less privacy.

Bring your own toiletries (including towels) and snacks.  You’re in the middle of nowhere.